10 YEARS OF STYLE ADVISOR

For as long as there have been fashion magazines, they have promised readers that September is the best moment for a complete sartorial reinvention. The cover of the first fall issue of this magazine in 2012 prescribed a wardrobe of “tough-girl chic.” We went on to suggest the wonders of wool (2014), a decidedly upmarket take on western wear (worn by actor Annie Murphy in 2016), and a closet in various shades of purple (2019). But we’ve also reported extensively on the growing awareness of sustainability within fashion.

So is there a way to be green and wear head-to-toe green if that’s suddenly the look? As Style Advisor begins marking 10 years of publication, three industry leaders share their take on September’s relevance, on and off the runway

“September has certainly been seen as a time of rebirth, both for consumers and for the industry as a whole. It’s a narrative that’s been told to us for so long. In some ways, it’s very thrilling because it’s an opportunity to go through your wardrobe and think about what looks you want to put together, and of who you want to be moving forward. One of the things I’ve been diving deeply into in my research and teaching is this idea of time – of cycles and of pace. What is the idea behind this rebirth? Why does it happen in September? I think it comes down to a notion that we always need to produce something new, wear something new and be someone new, instead of thinking about relationships to making and wearing in alternative ways. I think of this in terms of the role of vintage clothing and clothing that’s passed down and mended through generations. Rather than try to bend consumers and makers to fit the clock of fashion, how do you bend the clock to fit our bodies and minds?"

“I used to think about September and fashion month as one big go with key trends and takeaways. Fashion is so piecemeal now – shows in different destinations around the world, men’s wear and women’s wear showing together, and brands showing ready-to-wear during couture week. In this way, the relevancy of September is decreasing, though I think it will always have some. As we move toward a more social media-first fashion industry, we’re getting farther away from a few weeks of shows setting the tone for the season. The one thing that I hope that fashion month will really present this year is clothes that are of the times. Clothing that reflects what we’re going through mixed with a pre-COVID level of aspiration. That’s how I feel that people will be dressing.”

“Prior to the digital creator age, fashion was very stagnant. Everything was just given to us in terms of how we should dress. Today, we look at other people doing their own thing and we mimic them. My partner introduced me to TikTok and that side of being able to express myself through video. It really opened my eyes to trying different styles. I see September as an opportunity to really showcase yourself and not be limited by the weather. And I feel like more men are getting experimental because of social media, which has broken down a lot of barriers. I’m feeling that energy lately. Once we get back to whatever normal is, I think people are going to take what’s been done, experiment with it and just go crazy. I’m excited.”

As told to Odessa Paloma Parker. These interviews have been condensed and edited.